Advice on the car which was not in use for 2 years

CrunchyAdams82 · Post by **CrunchyAdams82** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:46 pm

I'd imagine you'll want to check the state of your lower suspension/ARB droplink bushes as well. These tend to perish when left standing.

The tyres may have also suffered a similar fate. Check those for cracks.

And also, if he left the handbrake on for the duration, one or both rear calipers may be seized.

lxstuart · Post by **lxstuart** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:57 pm

If the brake pedal was spongy, my bet would be that the brake fluid needs changing too.

mart609 · Post by **mart609** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:28 am

My old lude sat for 2 yrs.
filled the tank full.
Everything else was fine

but then after 2 weeks the blanace shaft seal went

Post by **Lude-dude** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:40 am

seized calipers,

especially rear

Post by **SPYDOR** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 1:03 pm

+1 for checking the rear calipers, the older they get the worse they become, especially if left sitting for ages!

When you fill with fresh petrol it is a good idea to use something better than standard 95 RON petrol. I'd recommend Shell Nitro+ as it is 99 RON and these higher quality petrols carry better detergents to clean the fuel system, helping to break down and clean out any contamination and old fuel. Along with a new fuel filter that will keep the loud-gas flowing nicely

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 5:26 pm

I would change all fluids (petrol, engine oil, coolant, brake fluid) most of them have to be changed yearly so it's time for it even if not used. Then defo look into brake calipers and discs, also like mentioned before flexis. Check for rust (not only arches but under the car, under the carpet if you can, in the boot - this will tell you about leaks/seals condition). Then prepare some spare cash and take it to MOT station. They will tell you what else you have to do.

And like mart said be prepared for some defects which may show up in close future.

It may sound bad, but with a bit of luck you will be fine, And most thinks mentioned here are standard "to do" after you buy 15years old car.

Good luck buddy

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:06 pm

Re: the EML, get the fault codes out and see what they are, but... It could easily be just because of the snapped exhaust pipe after the manifold - would affect the reading on the lamba sensor, so get that sorted before you start digging any deeper I suggest.

Ailfenergy · Post by **Ailfenergy** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:42 pm

The downpipe has been replaced. Although it's UK car, the standard UK downpipe didn't fit. I had to buy an import one, because it looked similar to the one I took off the car. However, holes on the exhaust manifold didn't match the holes on the downpipe that I bought. Luckily my friend is good at this type of thing, so he drilled new holes for bolts in downpipe so it could be attached to the manifold. I guess this problem occurred because of DC Sport exhaust manifold which is probably different from the original one. EML doesn't come up anymore.

Oil, coolant, fuel filter and spark plugs have been changed. Interior has been cleaned. Missing bulbs were replaced.
Probably next weekend I'm gonna have a look at calipers. The brakes are far from perfect but the car stops without excessive effort.

Bad bits:

1. I discovered the crack in the windscreen

2. When the temperature of the engine is getting close to normal working temperature the revs are jumping from 1k to 1.5k. This continues for 2-5 minutes. After that revs are normal again. Occasionally they might go higher than they should be (1,1k - 1,2k). Idle problems are annoying though. Idle control valve has been cleaned. It didn't help. It looked fairly clean anyway. What else could it be?

3. The spring on rear left coilover is cracked. Temporary we put standard shock absorber with Apex lowering spring.
Can anyone identify what kind of Teins these are?

What's the best place to get the spring? What would be the average price? Any budget options?

Post by **SPYDOR** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:05 pm

Sounds like you are getting there, good work so far.

With regards to the windscreen crack, check your insurance policy as you might be able to get it replaced for a small excess fee under your policy if the crack is larger than a £2 coin.

As for your idling problem, did it do this before the recent work or just started now? Might be worth checking the coolant system was properly bled as you have just changed it. Also, it wouldn't hurt to remove the radio fuse for a minute while the car is off, then replace and see if that little reset helps it to recalibrate itself.

Could also be your Fast-Idle Thermo Valve is sticking, there are a couple of guides on cleaning it below:

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t758.html

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1564019

Otherwise wait for the experts to respond, someone will probably tell you exactly what causes this!

Dbo · Post by **Dbo** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:27 pm

my lude was sat idle for months before I got her and soon got the same hunting idle problem

did all as said above but in the end turned out to be the throttle position sensor (TPS) was sticking... quick clean up and a 1mm tweak... has never happened since

worth a quick check....