Car will no longer start :(

Post by **Asacei** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:32 pm

Aggggggggggg

Have now changed the coil pack to a brand new one....Still no good

Next step?.....I am thinking maybe the ignition control module in the distributor. I have ignition on power to it and assuming the new coil pack is not faulty I'm at a loss for what to try next other than replace the icm.

Any suggestions welcome

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:39 pm

Try the ignitor mate. Its the little flat box thing with around 4 or 5 connectors going to it.

prelude91 · Post by **prelude91** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:46 pm

back to basics, are the plugs wet and therefore getting fuel

Post by **Asacei** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:09 pm

I currently do not believe there is a fuel problem...but I am definitely not getting a spark.

Ignitor? Is this the small flat box in the dizzy with 4 wires? If so this is what I know as the icm (ignition control module) in which case I think we are talking about the same thing. Will hopefully get one ordered tomorrow....really hope that's the end of it but open to alternative suggestions

Post by **Ash.Z** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:13 pm

My mate had a starting issue with his teg, turn out it was an earth on the gearbox. Just a thought.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:16 pm

Yea that's it mate. Also do check the earths on the engine. I am not sure about the preludes but I know the B series ecu's earth on top of the thermostat housing. So yea, make sure you got good earths, as Ash said.

YouTube · Post by **Sailor** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:28 am

Could the main relay cause a problem like this?

Post by **Asacei** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:48 am

I have checked earths all over and have upgraded the earths to significantly larger wire and better connectors during the build - cant seem to find a problem on that side of things. I've even gone all over the engine/gearbox checking continuity with the chassis and again everything that should be earthed checks out.

Think I'll get a replacement ICM ordered up, might even get another new distributor cap and rotor arm just to completely rule out that the new ones have a manufacturing fault (think this is really unlikly but beginning to pull my hair out now)

If the new ICM doesnt fix it think I might have to get it booked in somewhere, work is severly restricting the time I have to spend on the car at the moment and I'm running out of ideas. Think I might have to reluctantly resort to booking it in somewhere....not sure who I'll trust with the car...Performance Autoworks is probably top of my list simply due to the reputation and feedback I have read on here....will need to book a day off and another transporter to get the car there though

If its going somewhere like Performance autoworks I might be tempted to have a few more things done while its there, maybe an ECU upgrade and proper mapping...this could turn into an expensive little fault!

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:19 pm

This helped me a lot. Go step by step and you will find whats wrong. It takes up to 30minutes. Tools from this manual are only a little helpful and something else can be used. The only one highly recommended is spark tester which I do believe you can get from halfrauds

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:42 pm

Distibutor cap and rotor arm are indeed unlikely, but not impossible due to the cheap quality of ignition parts these days. Classic car mags have run tests and found brand new distributor caps that are conductive at ignition voltages (so all the current leaks straight down to earth).
Have you still got the old ones you can refit to test with?