"Cheap" powerfull H22?

Darkam · Post by **Darkam** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:17 pm

Hi.

Just seen that some prelude owners in US claim to reach around 230HP with a H23 cranck, H23 rods, Type S pistons, Skunk 2 stage 2 cams and other stuffs related to intake/exhaust.
Thought it is really interresting, as the gain is big and seems way cheaper than aftermarket parts.
Just imagine a H22A7 or H22A red top head over it, would be awesome.

Does someone have ever try it in the UK? It's tempting but it would be my first time disassemling/reassembling an engine, I know I can be concentrate and do things good but I'm just not sure about my skills.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:31 pm

106pete and Merlin are running around that, with nothing but oem parts (engine wise) IIRC.

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:13 am

230hp would be do able with 10.6:1 (JDM spec compression) psitons, ATR/Type-S/H22a8 cams, ATR IM, a good I/H/E and a good tune.

230whp (maybe what they are on about) and yes you will need 11:1 comp and stage two cams etc.... There was a PAW made 4th gen (the white one) that claimed to be 270bhp (that will be around the 230whp mark) that was at this spec.

The only accurate description of the power that my engine makes is that it is around 65 bhp more than a standard ish Type-S / S-SPEC. I have been on a few dyno's and get wildly differing results.

106pete · Post by **106pete** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:49 am

Yeah you'll see from my spec it's nothing more than bolted on parts and removed bits but if you want 230whp is anything but cheap.

All the parts and then building the engine adds up quickly unless your jammy like merlin and buy an already tuned engine complete

Post by **Drax** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:07 am

@Darkam that's pretty much what myself and 4thgenphil are building but in using the very similar F22 crank and rods

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:12 am

106pete wrote:unless your jammy like merlin and buy an already tuned engine complete

It sure is the way to do it

Post by **4thgenphil** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:13 am

Drax wrote:@Darkam that's pretty much what myself and 4thgenphil are building but in using the very similar F22 crank and rods

no i'm not

Post by **GreenyUK** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:27 am

Drax wrote:@Darkam that's pretty much what myself and 4thgenphil are building but in using the very similar F22 crank and rods

4thgenphil wrote:
Drax wrote:@Darkam that's pretty much what myself and 4thgenphil are building but in using the very similar F22 crank and rods
no i'm not

he's not building anything, actually just storing his 4th

Darkam · Post by **Darkam** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 1:13 pm

By cheap I mean "not as cheap as doing it with aftermarket parts"

But yeah, it would not be a bad idea to go for a complete rebuild, so it's far to be cheap.

Drax, can you tell us more about your choice to go with F22 parts instead of H23 ones ?

I know there is a bit of confusion about those heads beacause of stamps etc, but H22A redtop, H22A7 and H22A8 are all the same, right ?

Gotta change my plans, 'cause beetween a "sleeper" 4th gen I can use as a dayli without worrying about my insurer in case of an accident and a 3rd gen race I can drive less often, WAY less legaly, and for a lot more money, the choice is quickly made...

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 1:54 pm

Darkam wrote:I know there is a bit of confusion about those heads beacause of stamps etc, but H22A redtop, H22A7 and H22A8 are all the same, right ?

The Type-S and H22a8 heads (some say that the Type-S is stamped P5P) are stamped as P13 and are essentially the same as any other Prelude head other than they are using sprung lost motion assemblies and more aggressive cams. The ATR head is stamped as PDE and has the same LMA's and cams but is cast different in order to use the ATR PDE intake manifold. The Lude god from performance Autoworks says that the PDE head also has a little better finishing work on the throats when compared to the P13 head.