"Cheap" powerfull H22?

Darkam · Post by **Darkam** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 12:38 am

Then if I decide to go the "sleeper" way I better go with a H22A8 head due to ATR intake manifold looking different and not being as much effective (Torque loss) if there is no tune behind. So I guess I'll need a H22A8 ECU?

Gotta consider the possibility to make it on a 5th gen too as I've loads of parts and I'm avoiding harness conversion beacause of OBD difference. Would be cheaper. And owning 2 black 5th gen is drokking cool IMO

I've start to check for the cost of a complete rebuild, prices are absolutely not the same in US than here... Just for example, a main bearing is beetween 10 and 15$ for them, 45$ for US. Glad I have contacts in America...

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:56 am

What engine do you have at the moment?

Post by **Drax** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 12:38 pm

Darkam wrote:Drax, can you tell us more about your choice to go with F22 parts instead of H23 ones ?

it was simply the crank that came pre-built in the engine when I bought it, no difference between the F22 crank and the H23A1 - but needs to be one of them in order for everything to line up and fit for me. If you bought a H23A crank for instance, you'd need a block with a 55mm journal fitment so the H22/H22A wouldn't be big enough.

as spec'd here;
Stroke
H22A4 = 90.7mm/3.570
H22A = 90.7mm/3.570
H23A = 95mm/3.740
H23A1 = 95mm/3.740
F22 = 95mm/3.740
F23 = 97mm/3.818
F20B = 88mm/3.464

Main Journal Diameter
H22A4 = 55mm
H22A4 = 50mm (1997 Only)
H22A = 50mm
H23A = 55mm
H23A1 = 50mm
F22 = 50mm
F23 = 55mm
F20B = 55mm

Post by **Donald** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 1:24 pm

In reference to Drax's post:
The H22A8 should be good enough to go with H23A crank, although at that point you'd just use the A8 one? IIRC that's 55mm. Maybe I'm getting confused with what you're talking about. I'm sure Merlin or @4thgenphil can confirm.

Darkam if you fancy a trip back to the UK you can have an H22A8 and ECU at discounted price if you remove it yourself

Darkam · Post by **Darkam** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:00 am

@Merlin : Don't even got the car ATM, I need to know what I'll be doing before being anything. Standard french VTI or 4th gen H22, so H22A5.

I've checked Drax thread... Totaly awesome, really motivating

So if I don't say anything wrong, Type S H22A red top and H22A8 pistons are the same right ? What about H22A7 ones, I've seen they comes in "A" and "B" sizes ?

IDK how to determine wich ECU I have to use, it depends only on the cams if I want a smooth IDLE ?

Ho and last thing, are ALL H22 head (H22A5 too) the same ? I mean heads only, not the camshaft, rockers or anything else, just the principal part.

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:06 am

Cheap
Powerful
Reliable

Pick any two.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:54 am

All H22 pistons come in A and B sizes. It's to match the individual bore sizes in that particular block and achieve the correct piston to bore clearances, nothing more.

The H22A7 has a PDE head, which has slightly different inlet ports to match the revised inlet manifold.
All other H22 heads are P13 (

right? Everyone?

)

There are differences between the LMA's in PDE heads compared to P13 heads, but to confuse matters further, some P13 heads also had the type of LMA's that were fitted to PDE heads...

Post by **Drax** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:16 am

bennyboy wrote:Cheap
Powerful
Reliable

Pick any two.

baaahahahAHAHA!!

that should be the default welcome for any new Prelude owner

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:17 am

Drax wrote:
bennyboy wrote:Cheap
Powerful
Reliable

Pick any two.
baaahahahAHAHA!!

that should be the default welcome for any new Prelude owner

It's an adaption of something said by one of the great mountain bike builders back in the hey day of the early - mid nineties.

I believe it was:

Cheap.
Light.
Strong.

Pick any two.

Amazing how well it applies though.

Post by **Merlin** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:20 am

Darkam wrote:Ho and last thing, are ALL H22 head (H22A5 too) the same ? I mean heads only, not the camshaft, rockers or anything else, just the principal part.

On the previous page

Merlin wrote:
Darkam wrote:I know there is a bit of confusion about those heads beacause of stamps etc, but H22A redtop, H22A7 and H22A8 are all the same, right ?
The Type-S and H22a8 heads (some say that the Type-S is stamped P5P) are stamped as P13 and are essentially the same as any other Prelude head other than they are using sprung lost motion assemblies and more aggressive cams. The ATR head is stamped as PDE and has the same LMA's and cams but is cast different in order to use the ATR PDE intake manifold. The Lude god from performance Autoworks says that the PDE head also has a little better finishing work on the throats when compared to the P13 head.

Darkam wrote:IDK how to determine wich ECU I have to use, it depends only on the cams if I want a smooth IDLE ?

If you are adding cams you pretty much need to use a tunable ECU, a P28/P30/P72 with Hondata, Crome etc...