Talk to me about clutches

Redoug1976 · Post by **Redoug1976** » Thu May 21, 2015 12:36 pm

I've just got genuine Accord type r clutch to go in my 5th gen after doing a bit of research on the site.Never done a clutch on a honda before but will be giving it ago this weekend lol

Post by **Merlin** » Thu May 21, 2015 1:43 pm

As the others have said the ATR clutch is the way to go. It is what I have in my 5th gen.

Read the service manual as it will tell you exactly how to do the clutch. All that is needed to be removed under the car is the front to back lower brace and the drivers side radius rod. Getting the gearbox off/on on jack stands is a two man job IMO. The other difficulty doing the job on jack stands is getting to the bolts for the rear engine & gearbox brace, it is difficult but not impossible.

The OEM ATR clutch kit does not come with a clutch alignment tool, so you will need your own.

You will need 2L of gearbox fluid for filling the box back up again.

Post by **4thgenphil** » Thu May 21, 2015 6:34 pm

Not too bad in axle stands, but as mec said, you either need to take the cross member off or get the front end really high on axle stands.

Post by **Merlin** » Thu May 21, 2015 7:45 pm

You don't need the front cross member off to remove the gearbox. Only the front to back lower brace and the drivers side radius rod, this is what the service manual says and how we did it on my drive. With only the drivers radius rod off you can get the box out of the drivers wheel well. It saves taking off the passenger radius rod and the cross member, yes you have to take the front engine mount off the cross member though.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Thu May 21, 2015 7:50 pm

You don't, but if your doing it on your own, it makes things about a million times easier.

Post by **Merlin** » Thu May 21, 2015 8:03 pm

Very true however if you are an average person like me, if you are doing it on axle stands you are not going to get very far by yourself

Even with 2-3 people (one of which is a 3rd Gen Steve) putting the box back on is a swine. The other week when we did the clutch on my 4th gen it was on the ramp and 3rd Gen Steve put the box on by himself.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Thu May 21, 2015 8:58 pm

Im running a ATR clutch on mine Chris. And i track it and occasionally take it to work. Great bite but not agressive and heavy like a stage clutch. ATR kit is all you will need.

3rd_gen_Aaron · Post by **3rd_gen_Aaron** » Thu May 21, 2015 11:07 pm

I have a quinton hazell clutch I picked up stupidly cheap from ebay but do you think it will be worth fitting? I'm planning to put it in a h23 vtec with type s cams, pistons and cheapo manifold with no cat.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri May 22, 2015 7:01 pm

Nothing wrong with Quiton hazell as a brand - they're proper manufacturers of car parts.

3rd_gen_Aaron · Post by **3rd_gen_Aaron** » Fri May 22, 2015 7:23 pm

OK, I thought they had a bad name. The friction disc (assuming thats what you would call it) is exedy one. I think it's the same as part number as is included in a stage 1 kit.

Is mainly because of the life of the clutch why people fit uprated clutches or would you expect a standard clutch to slip underload if the engine is tuned slightly ie 230hp?