Bad misfire under load

[wurlycorner]

Do you need to watch the valves you use a long screw driver as it will be touching the top of piston 1. Piston 1 at is highest position shows where TDC is does it not?

Yep, but you want to check it when it's reached the top of the compression stroke rather than the exhaust stroke, which you can tell by watching the valves (the up stroke after the inlet valve has closed, like I said ) and you can't see what the valves are doing unless the rocker cover is off.

[wurlycorner]

Another thought... I assume the lude ignition system still has noise suppressors (capacitors)???
Worth checking they haven't gone down.

[Merlin]

Do you need to watch the valves you use a long screw driver as it will be touching the top of piston 1. Piston 1 at is highest position shows where TDC is does it not?

Yep, but you want to check it when it's reached the top of the compression stroke rather than the exhaust stroke, which you can tell by watching the valves (the up stroke after the inlet valve has closed, like I said ) and you can't see what the valves are doing unless the rocker cover is off.

You mean to check if the valves are opening at the correct time? As in their relation to TDC? As a check to see if the mechanical timing is correctly set?

[Merlin]

we have a B series box and these markings are not on there and my friend who has performed these conversions in the past has not needed them, this could be down to not having to do the timing?

Does the B series do something funny like having its timing marks on the crank pulley?

[wurlycorner]

You mean to check if the valves are opening at the correct time? As in their relation to TDC? As a check to see if the mechanical timing is correctly set?

Yep - as I said if all else is lost, that's the basic starting point

EDIT: Maybe I should have said the way of finding "the important TDC"... Because TDC on its own is only in relation to where a (any) piston is in its stroke, but as far as checking timing from the beginning, only one TDC matters, which is the one I was talking about - I was thinking purely of what matters in relation to checking timing, 'cause that's what we are talking about here... Hopefully that clears everything up

[Merlin]

You mean to check if the valves are opening at the correct time? As in their relation to TDC? As a check to see if the mechanical timing is correctly set?

Yep - as I said if all else is lost, that's the basic starting point

I did wonder what you were meaning since the position of the vales does not indicate TDC.

we have a B series box and these markings are not on there and my friend who has performed these conversions in the past has not needed them, this could be down to not having to do the timing?

Does the B series do something funny like having its timing marks on the crank pulley?

Yup this is it. The B series uses timing marks on the crank pulley http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/ ... es.222341/







On the H2B you can apparently set timing using marks on the flywheel side, not sure if it is specific to that H2B kit though :

Clean and check the flywheel bolt threads along with the crankshaft threads to remove dirt and grime.

• Position the crankshaft spacer in between the crankshaft and the flywheel. The spacer will only go on one way matching the pin in the crankshaft. The pin will also center the ignition timing line for TDC.

 Our crankshaft spacer includes a line indicating TDC. To set ignition timing you will need to use an adjustable timing gun.

 Use a thread-locking lube and begin installing the flywheel bolts by hand. Follow Honda’s torque sequence in the following steps: 29 ft. lbs., 49 ft. lbs., 69 ft. lbs., and ending at 89 ft. lbs.

• You will now install your clutch assembly following the manufactures procedures.

http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/h-f-serie ... nside.html

More on how to set H2B ignition timing - http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/ ... ic=22843.0

[wurlycorner]

I did wonder what you were meaning since the position of the vales does not indicate TDC.

yes, that's why I said to use a (not screwdriver) to check position of the piston.

I said you need to look at the valves to determine if you're on the right stroke for (ignition) TDC.

I think I give up!


Anyway, I think we're agreed...
Check all the cams/crank are correctly aligned.
Check the knock sensor and associated gubbins are all ok.
Check ignition suppression gear is all in place and good.
Check all the ht leads are on correctly and ok.
Then if you can't get timing correct at idle (using the right procedure) try changing the distributor (or bits inside it).


Might be worth slinging the old distributor cap on as well. I have had friends that have fitted new caps only to find they breakdown/conduct at ht voltage (they checked them with a megger). Swapped back to the old worn ones and all ok again...

[Merlin]

I think I give up!

Don't worry I am a tool

[wurlycorner]

A quality one at that though








(and this from the man that writes off a friends land rover, don't forget )

[hoppi05]

guys i really appreacite all the feedback and apologies for the confussion on a working day! we will do the list below

Check all the cams/crank are correctly aligned.
Check the knock sensor and associated gubbins are all ok.
Check ignition suppression gear is all in place and good.
Check all the ht leads are on correctly and ok.
Then if you can't get timing correct at idle (using the right procedure) try changing the distributor (or bits inside it).

i may warrent a wooden spoon image here but what is the ignition suppression gear????

next time i am buying an engine that is built and not in bits lol