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Cv joint replacement.
- vanzep
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outer cvs are quite easy to replace - you just knock the old cv joint off with a hammer - and push the new one on - using the old set ring will make fitting the new one a bit easier
make sure it seated properly and use a copper/rubber mallet to help fit it if needed - you will need to take the driveshaft out from the car to do this work and a vice is ideal for gripping the part

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I've got a vice in my van so that's no issues. Was just thinking about doing this as the car vibrates when you get beyond 40mph (wheels are balanced). Planning on replacing the seals in the gearbox whilst I'm there as the gearbox has a pretty bad leak and that's the only place I can think of that it'd be coming from (drain bolt is fully tightened and no leak coming from there).
Are the inners just as easy?
Are the inners just as easy?
- wurlycorner
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Inners are easier.
They're a tri-ax joint. Outer cup is only held on to the inner shaft by the gaitor - remove the gaitor clips and it will slide off the joint (immediately releasing the bearings which fall off and leave you swearing cause you've lost which one went where
).
The central part of the joint is held onto the shaft with circlips.
Very unlikely to need replacement, IMO.
They're a tri-ax joint. Outer cup is only held on to the inner shaft by the gaitor - remove the gaitor clips and it will slide off the joint (immediately releasing the bearings which fall off and leave you swearing cause you've lost which one went where

The central part of the joint is held onto the shaft with circlips.
Very unlikely to need replacement, IMO.
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Iain.
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OnlineVtecmec
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The inner o/s can be had easily from a 3rd party manufacturer on ebay.
The inner n/s I've never found one anywhere, though you could use the innards of a new o/s in the cup for the old one, its worth noting that some of the aftermarket inners are designed slightly differently from the OEM's in that they have no flats around the bearings, it means they are way easier to assemble.
Be mindful of getting the correct outer part, some M/F's stock ATR's (I think) as Preludes,they are almost identical other than the spline on the ATR is about 1CM shorter, this means that the locking nut does not go all the way and is a bit more likely to come undone.
The inner n/s I've never found one anywhere, though you could use the innards of a new o/s in the cup for the old one, its worth noting that some of the aftermarket inners are designed slightly differently from the OEM's in that they have no flats around the bearings, it means they are way easier to assemble.
Be mindful of getting the correct outer part, some M/F's stock ATR's (I think) as Preludes,they are almost identical other than the spline on the ATR is about 1CM shorter, this means that the locking nut does not go all the way and is a bit more likely to come undone.