Toms 1999 VTi 4WS LHD

[tom023]

A larger tyre wall like 215/45 would have filled out the arch gap better.

[bennyboy]

Nice wheels

I've had both 215 40 and 215 45 on my 4th gen and I would say the most noticeable thing over all is a slight comfort improvement, which is considering it's all polybushed/lowered/blah blah.

There's a few pics in my thread (This is it on the 215 45's BTW, 215 40 pics in the early part of the thread):

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 5-340.html

[tom023]

Nice wheels

I've had both 215 40 and 215 45 on my 4th gen and I would say the most noticeable thing over all is a slight comfort improvement, which is considering it's all polybushed/lowered/blah blah.

There's a few pics in my thread (This is it on the 215 45's BTW, 215 40 pics in the early part of the thread):

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 5-340.html

Cheers bennyboy, I'll have a look now.

Edit: Comparing the sizes in your pics, 215/40 doesn't look too bad. I guess I'll get used to it.

[tom023]

On my quest to rid the Prelude of understeer I've just finished doing the alignment.

Before:
FRONT: (L/R)
Camber: aprox -2° both sides
Toe: -7.5/+5.0mm

REAR:
Toe: -1/-3mm

After:
FRONT:
Toe: -1/-1mm

REAR: +1/+1mm

So I've set it up to toe out slightly on the front and slightly in on the rear.

Advice/opinions on this alignment? Will this be okay for daily driving?



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[wurlycorner]

potatoe pic?

[tom023]

potatoe pic?

The poor quality of the photo looks like it could've been taken with a potatoe.

[tom023]

Small update to keep my build thread alive: I fitted new "white" halogen bulbs and W5W to sides lights, number plate, low and high beam.


On another note, the new tyres are fully bedded in and grip the road extremely well. They do need heat in them before you can push them, but once they warm up the 'lude feels glued down in the bends.

[tom023]

So I've had various oil leaks (nothing major) since I've had the Lude and I have slowly been changing all of the seals, whether the were leaking or not.
It was the oil pump sides turn this time. I would have like to of documented this better but it was getting late and we were pushed for time.

Remove all belts, tensioner...etc.


Remove sump. I gave it a good clean while it was off.


Removed end plate after taking off the crankshaft pulley and the balance shaft pulleys. It is important to lock off the balance shaft before removing its pulleys, I used the proper locking pin but I suppose you could use anything of similar dimensions to go in the hole (drill bit?). The bung is on the back left hand side of the block (behind the BS pulley).
After removing the end plate I was treated to baked seals and one that just fell out by itself.


New seals fitted for: balance shaft, crankshaft and bit high pressure oil seals/gaskets (one either side).


It's late now so I'll rebuild it all tomorrow. Unfortunately we didn't have time to remove the gearbox to do the rear main oil seal and fit this!

[tom023]

Here's some extra pics:

End plate re-fitted with all new gaskets and sealed up.

In this blurry image you can see the locking pin sticking out. This locks off the rear balance shaft so that you can remove the pulley and keep the shaft in place.
I also found a leak from a brand new rocker-cover gasket I fitted a year ago. Leaking down the back of the engine, it seemed to have run down the wiring harness and then came out before reaching the sump. This would have also contributed to my wet bottom!

[tom023]

I have good and bad news. Bad news is that I still have the same oil leak that I had before I changed all of the oil pump area seals and gaskets. When I get the time I will take the belt covers off, clean the area spotless and go out for a drive to pin point exactly where the leak originates from.

The good news is that I've just finished fitting a front ES engine mount insert. Is it worth fitting the back one aswell? I have read that it can create major vibration inside the car and that the front mount does most of the work anyway...?

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