Try and undo everything he soldered or touched. Sounds like some of the solder connections have since broken off or are earthing out when they shouldn't be, or indeed connected up wrong completely.
Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
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- jdeale84
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Just got another code, 7-2 internal failure in the SRS unit so I think I broke it further, not too fussed about the airbag though, more upset about my cruise control not working but i still don't understand why not. Gonna have one final look then I might just call an electrician since i think my probing and wire maneuvering is only causing more damage.
It was all in the old clock spring and I've discarded it completely, just hoping it hasn't left any damage behind.
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What caused you to replace the clock spring in the first place? Did the cruise control work before all of this?
Generally cruise control stops working because of the switches on the pedal or the rubber stopper on the pedal that presses the button...
Generally cruise control stops working because of the switches on the pedal or the rubber stopper on the pedal that presses the button...
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I may have a spare SRS module maybe even a clock spring, i will check this evening.
The switches for the cruise control may pass inspection with a multimeter but are not strong enough to activate the cruise module. Some simple contact cleaner sprayed inside the brake and clutch switches is usually enough to fix it.
The switches for the cruise control may pass inspection with a multimeter but are not strong enough to activate the cruise module. Some simple contact cleaner sprayed inside the brake and clutch switches is usually enough to fix it.
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This all started when I took off my steering wheel to try and put another one on since my mate had a spare vertex one he was willing to give me. At the time, not knowing I had to center the clock spring when I put it back on, naturally it snapped whilst I have driving. And then unsurprisingly, all the electronics in the steering wheel stopped working and the light came on. Since then someone tried to solder it back together, that didn't work, I bought a new one but it was faulty and then last week i bought another and then it didn't work so I started this thread and here we are. Before all of this, everyone worked with no issues.
That would be really helpful thank you.
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This might help, the first image is a picture of my original clock spring before i snapped it and everything was working perfectly.
The next image is the one that's currently in my car.
See how they differ in which ports they go into, I'm not sure if that has something to do with why the horn and cruise control aren't working
The next image is the one that's currently in my car.
See how they differ in which ports they go into, I'm not sure if that has something to do with why the horn and cruise control aren't working
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It's possible that its not the correct part, and so the wiring between the car and wheel is now changed. Since your original one is damaged, you have nothing 'good' to compare with.
You could attempt changing what is already there to match, but I suspect this will end in failure.
If I have a rotary coupler, I will take some pictures this evening and advise the pin out.
What year is your prelude (in case it is relevant).
You could attempt changing what is already there to match, but I suspect this will end in failure.
If I have a rotary coupler, I will take some pictures this evening and advise the pin out.
What year is your prelude (in case it is relevant).
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It the wiring into the plug doesn't match then yes, that will definitely cause a problem.
Your cruise will be talking to your horn and vice versa.
Your cruise will be talking to your horn and vice versa.
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Well done for taking the original photo. It looks like you need to re-pin the big plug to match what you had originally.
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I would hold off re pinning.
The reason I say this is that the SRS plug on the left, it occupies the first 2 pins in both pictures. This then brakes the assumption that the pinout from front to rear of the coupler is correct - otherwise there would be no SRS failure since it 'should' be correctly wired.
My conclusion is that internally, this rotary coupler is not correct for this vehicle. Did it come from a 4th gen listing perhaps (its not an original part it seems)?
The reason I say this is that the SRS plug on the left, it occupies the first 2 pins in both pictures. This then brakes the assumption that the pinout from front to rear of the coupler is correct - otherwise there would be no SRS failure since it 'should' be correctly wired.
My conclusion is that internally, this rotary coupler is not correct for this vehicle. Did it come from a 4th gen listing perhaps (its not an original part it seems)?
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