Dash Cam needs Batt+ and ACC power.

geriatrix · Post by **geriatrix** » Mon May 13, 2024 2:32 pm

The hardwire kit for my dash cam needs an ignition controlled feed (ACC) and a permanent feed (B+). I'm hoping to piggyback these from the internal fusebox. The ACC shouldn't be a problem, but looking at the handbook I'm not sure if any of the internal fusebox fuses are on permanently. Any advice welcomed! It's a UK 5G btw.

Scott560 · Post by **Scott560** » Mon May 13, 2024 3:10 pm

Easiest to just tap into the radio wires rather if you ask me. If you have an ISO wired head unit, the wires should be easily identifiable as yellow/red...

geriatrix · Post by **geriatrix** » Tue May 14, 2024 2:50 pm

Thanks Scott, good thinking. I'd forgotten about the ISO connector. Scotchblocks ordered.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue May 21, 2024 1:32 pm

There's a few options: Clock, Radio and Ignition Switch have a permanent live, for starters.

geriatrix · Post by **geriatrix** » Tue May 21, 2024 1:36 pm

Thanks, but I used the connection to the ISO feed as it was easier than linking to the internal fuse box which is not so accessable. I hadn't realised just what an awkward position it was in.

Scott560 · Post by **Scott560** » Tue May 21, 2024 2:39 pm

There are spade terminals on the fuse box for 'accessories' , but I found that cheapy spade terminal female connectors wouldn't fit the spades terribly well (I guess some might fit fine). There are official connectors that latch into the plastic fuse box housing , but I could only ever find pictures of them, and none for sale. In the end my fog lights switched live (for the button) were wired to the radio, so that I can't leave them powered on as I had done previously (obviously I also have a proper 12v fused line coming from the fusebox in the engine bay for the relay to power the actual lights themselves).