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LewisH
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Post by LewisH » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:10 pm

Hi guys/girls.

So, i have a nice 5th gen prelude, 2.2 VTI 4WS - Full mtoegi kit BB8. (will upload pics tomorrow as i cleaned her today)

Ive seen want some yanks have done to there 5th gens turbo wise, and well... im gonna do it!

Has anyone here done it? as there isnt a place for project posts etc on the forum (unless im being blind?)

Anyway,

Im planning on doing it over 18 months (so ill be 25 when its done) so i can insure it at a nice price instead of something silly! Ive found pistons, and rods already (with the help of a friend who turbo'd his EK4 civic) I have also looked at the Skunk 2 inlet, cams and throttle body to go with it all.

Any suggestions, links to stuff etc would be very much apreciated as this is new to me. The most help i need is with my gearbox, what will it hold etc? And ECU mapping.

Thanks,

Lews -
BB8 UKDM VTi

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Post by Donald » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:14 pm

@SiR Si has turbo'd his 5th, ~310bhp I think?

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 17-10.html

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Post by LewisH » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:27 pm

That is such a big help, thanks for that matey! like i said, I'll get some pics of my 5th gen tomorrow and upload some :)

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Post by SiR Si » Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:15 pm

LewisH wrote:Hi guys/girls.
Im planning on doing it over 18 months (so ill be 25 when its done) so i can insure it at a nice price instead of something silly! Ive found pistons, and rods already (with the help of a friend who turbo'd his EK4 civic) I have also looked at the Skunk 2 inlet, cams and throttle body to go with it all.

Any suggestions, links to stuff etc would be very much apreciated as this is new to me. The most help i need is with my gearbox, what will it hold etc? And ECU mapping.
Hay fella, nice to hear someone thinking of doing a turbo set-up, you know that once you have boost you will never go back.. :twisted: :twisted:

If you have pistions I'm sure you know that the Marhle Gold series are the only pistons that we can use on our standard block without ductile iron sleeves. A lot of people (including me) use eagle rods with the Marhle pistons which seem to work well.

Tuning there are loads of ways in which you can do it like chrome or hondata I use e-manage blue, which is a piggy back but seems to work nice enough. In terms of gearboxes, this is the last thing you will need, as far as I can tell all honda gearboxes generally seem to be really substantial and can take a huge amount of abuse in terms of high power figures. I know mine is absolutely fine.

Danni22

Post by Danni22 » Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:59 pm

I was under the impression that with the H22 block we had to sleeve it to run more than 6psi due to our sleeves being made of FRM..

Or can the stock bottom end with the piston you said be ok for big power??

I was advices to leave my head standard and put the money into a good manifold, turbo and map

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Post by SiR Si » Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:54 am

Danni22 wrote:I was under the impression that with the H22 block we had to sleeve it to run more than 6psi due to our sleeves being made of FRM..

Or can the stock bottom end with the piston you said be ok for big power??
Stock pistons and ringlands are what will let down a standard h22. On a boosted h22 a really good map is essential in ensuring that these weekness are not stressed to breaking point. There are mixed views on how much boost the pistons and ringlands will take . I have run 5-7psi on a stock h22 for over a year which was fine however towards the end of this the engine did start to show signs of a bit more blow by and oil in the exhaust then I was happy with.

The Marhle gold series pistons are designed to work with the standard FRM liners so no need to sleeve a block to run them. They are ok for moderate to big power, there are also loads of mixed views on how much power you can run on the gold series. My view is if you want crazy power do it properly and sleeve the block. If you are not shooting for insane figure you can get a lot from the Mahle and hay if you blow them up then you can sleeve the block ;)
Danni22 wrote:I was advices to leave my head standard and put the money into a good manifold, turbo and map
Sounds like good advice, I would completely agree. Turbo cars do not need to have the same attention to head flow as a NA and the standard h22 head seems to flow fairly well.

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Post by secla » Mon Dec 31, 2012 6:40 am

psi wont break anything overall power will.

6 psi is not very descriptive as 6psi on a td05 turbo is going to make a totally different amounts of power thsn a gt40.

ring lands are the weak point of the honda engines. apart from d series where the rods are prettt weak to

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Post by wurlycorner » Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:21 am

secla wrote:psi wont break anything overall power will.

6 psi is not very descriptive as 6psi on a td05 turbo is going to make a totally different amounts of power thsn a gt40.
Fair point. Except this discussion isn't talking about different engines, it's completely specific to 1 engine (H22) so psi is perfectly descriptive in this instance :?

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Post by secla » Mon Dec 31, 2012 11:02 am

no its not. as i said power produced can alter completley depending on chosen turbo. 6psi on a small turbo isgoing to produce less power than a large turbo.
ultimately you want driveability and reliability and personally i wouldnt own a turbo honds again without forged pistons/rods

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Post by SiR Si » Mon Dec 31, 2012 11:10 am

secla wrote: 6 psi is not very descriptive as 6psi on a td05 turbo is going to make a totally different amounts of power thsn a gt40.
Completely agree that stating a psi is not very descriptive without taking the set-up into account, but its not just the power that the engine produces, but how efficiently it is producing the power and as a by-product how hot or cold it runs. I think hot spot on pistons, caused by boost, cause our ringlands to fail so anything that can be done to reduce combustion temps is a good thing, such as big intercooler, free-flowing turbo manifold etc.
secla wrote:ultimately you want driveability and reliability and personally i wouldnt own a turbo honds again without forged pistons/rods
What was your set-up? I have driven a low boost set-up for years and it was fine. I think what people need to understand is that a low boost set-up is a compromise and there is a risk involved as with any engine tuning. If done well it can last for a good period of time, also engine prices these days almost make a standard engine easily replaced at low cost if it does fail, you could buy at 3-4 good engines for the cost of a built one.

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