changing body parts

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:04 pm

Take the doors off (take the wing off first so you can get at the door bolts easily) lie the doors on the ground next to each other, swap the relevant guts over;
looms complete
door lock and handle complete
mirror switch complete
switch panel complete (your JDM probably has the power lock switch and the UKDM doesn't?)
And then refit the doors.
It's pretty easy.

You don't need to swap the relay in the drivers door because they're the same (the power folding mirror relay is in the passenger door).

You can't just swap the doors without the guts - You'll probably find the UKDM has 2 plugs from the door loom into the chassis loom and the JDM has 3 plugs because of the extra gubbins on the JDM.

Post by **vanzep** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:09 pm

im looking at doing exact same myself on my jdm bb4 - was going to swap over both doors - passenger door no problem as jdm so just need to swap out locks which ive done and is very easy to do - drivers door is ukdm and looking at the work needed is making me think it would be easier just to get the one i have in place fixed - need to change over the loom,locks,mirror, and door control panel - and like you i would lose the infra red central locking - the other thing i noticed is that ukdm and jdm doors seem to have different bracing on the inside - the jdm one is a u section welded in and the ukdm is a bloody great big round metal bar - ukdm will probably be safer in a side impact but no doubt a few kilos heavier.
the bonnet is only four bolts to undo but you will a few other folk to help hold it - it must be the heaviest body panel on the car by some way

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:15 pm

I was thinking it was the JDM lude he was keeping?

If it's the UKDM he's keeping then yes, you also need to;
swap the wiring looms in the passenger door too (including the relay that's in the passenger door and that's the reason for swapping the loom)
And either;
Make up the additional wiring that runs between the drivers side and passenger side
or;
If you don't fancy making up the wiring, swap the entire dash loom over (lot of hassle with both dashes out complete).

I've done this on my UKDM (fitted folding mirrors and puddle lights by analy picking apart wiring looms and transfering individual wires etc so I can reuse the original wiring and plugs everywhere

) and have loads of pics, just haven't bothered to write it up and put all the pics up yet!

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:18 pm

But then when I re-read the original post I thought you were probably right, so who knows?!

Anyway, covered both ways now

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:45 pm

Right, then just what I put in my first post.

It really is pretty straight forward.

A few additional tips:
You need to remove the rear window runner to get the door lock out of the door. Runner is removed by undoing the bottom bolt and then pulling it downwards towards the door bottom. Pay some attention when you pull the runner out because refitting the runner can be a pain (body lemonade about for ages then suddenly you find the right knack and it just pops in)

To unplug the door looms, detach the rubber grommet from the 'A' pillar and then gently pull the looms up wards. The plugs will come into view and you can pull them far enough so they come out of the hole in the pillar so they're nice and easy to disconnect.
Reconnect them and refit the rubber grommet BEFORE you refit the wing, otherwise it's a right PITA!

If you're refitting the inner door skins (the translucent plastic skin), the stuff to stick them back on with is Plumbers Mait (Wickes or Screwfix).
If you're not refitting them and you can get them off in one piece, I'll gladly take them off your hands!!!

Post by **vanzep** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:17 am

the wind deflectors are easy to fit if the door your fitting has had them fitted previously - otherwise you will have cut into the seals in the right places

the other thing to mention is it easier to swap the lock barrel out than swapping out the whole handle section

vti2003 · Post by **vti2003** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:20 am

Another good tip with the doors is to be careful 'cos they are seriously heavy

Open the door and lay a dust sheet across the sill, close the door and make sure it is latched shut. Undo the hinge bolts, then you can release the door by pulling the handle and lifting it away, it will stay in place until you do this.

When you refit them, leave the dust sheet in place and lift the door on into the closed position, make sure it latches shut. Again it will stay in place and make it a lot easier to do the hinge bolts up.

Much easier than messing around with jacks supporting the door when it is open.