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Advice needed :)

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hondaman
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Post by hondaman » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:17 pm

NafemanNathan wrote:Yes, no RWD I'm afraid ;)

You need the 4WS to be working. If it's not (If the "4WS" dash light it permanently on), then it's dangerous as there's nothing controlling the turning of the rear wheels. They can turn on their own when you go around a corner or something, or even on a straight and throw you off the road.
I concur, mine went wrong and I drove it to work one morning, with the 4Ws light on, meaning inoperative 4WS and it almost put me in a ditch, only my quick reactions stopped me from ending up in a tangled mess,

Determining if the car is vtec or not is pretty easy, look at the chassis plate if its BB1 or BB4 its vtec or just look at the cam cover if its got a plastic cover between the cam banks its vtec more than likely as not
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Post by NafemanNathan » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:20 pm

You have to do a subframe conversion from a 2WS lude.

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hondaman
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Post by hondaman » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:20 pm

chris1811 wrote:
NafemanNathan wrote:Yes, no RWD I'm afraid ;)

You need the 4WS to be working. If it's not (If the "4WS" dash light it permanently on), then it's dangerous as there's nothing controlling the turning of the rear wheels. They can turn on their own when you go around a corner or something, or even on a straight and throw you off the road.
This made me chuckle. How easy is it to have deactivated?
Tbh, its a bit of a pain, you need a 2WS (2 wheel steer) rear subframe and non steering 2ws arms, but this is a straight bolt in swap, you remove the 4WS system and bolt in the 2WS rear subframe and system. it took me about 4 hours to do mine, on a 4 post ramp in the air with a mate helping, there is no way I would have managed this without a proper ramp and some help, its pretty big job if I'm honest, and you need some mechanical aptitude

If you want to do the job properly, I've also removed the 4WS ECU and under car wiring, fuse and 4WS relay in the main fuse box
"life is just a bet on a race, between the lights"

The Toys
Honda Prelude 2.2 vtec (work on-going)
Ford Mustang GT V8 - Shortly :) YeeeHaaaa
Honda Fireblade 929 - SOLD
Ford Cougar Coupe - SOLD

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Post by chris1811 » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:33 pm

Hmmmm I have access to a garage etc missus uncle owns one so that's no issue. I'll take a look into it :)

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Post by hondaman » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:40 pm

chris1811 wrote:Hmmmm I have access to a garage etc missus uncle owns one so that's no issue. I'll take a look into it :)
I know its a Prelude forum etc, etc and you'd expect people to be pro Prelude, but honestly they are a great car, if you can find a rust free-ish example check rear arches they are prone to it, you'll be laughing as they are set to be a classic in a few years, with less than 900 cars left, I was told recently by an up market car dealer if I keep it 5 years it'll be worth £5,000, I paid £550 for my 50,000 mile 2 owner 1995 2.2 vtec.
"life is just a bet on a race, between the lights"

The Toys
Honda Prelude 2.2 vtec (work on-going)
Ford Mustang GT V8 - Shortly :) YeeeHaaaa
Honda Fireblade 929 - SOLD
Ford Cougar Coupe - SOLD

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Post by chris1811 » Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:43 pm

hondaman wrote:
chris1811 wrote:Hmmmm I have access to a garage etc missus uncle owns one so that's no issue. I'll take a look into it :)
I know its a Prelude forum etc, etc and you'd expect people to be pro Prelude, but honestly they are a great car, if you can find a rust free-ish example check rear arches they are prone to it, you'll be laughing as they are set to be a classic in a few years, with less than 900 cars left, I was told recently by an up market car dealer if I keep it 5 years it'll be worth £5,000, I paid £550 for my 50,000 mile 2 owner 1995 2.2 vtec.
This I like the sound of haha

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Post by chris1811 » Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:12 am

Thanks for all the help so far. I'll take some pictures tomorrow guys and post them and see what you all think :)

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Post by wurlycorner » Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:02 am

Vtec, 4ws etc are all reliable and bloody excellent - you wouldn't want rid of either. Don't worry about them.
Provided the car has been properly maintained, using the right viscocity oil, changed at the right frequency, your only real worry on a 4g is rust.
Not driven an auto 4g but I have never understood the point of an auto vtec. Easy enough to do a manual conversion though, anyway (in fact, I know someone that can sell you all the kit :lol: )

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Post by chris1811 » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:53 am

wurlycorner wrote:Vtec, 4ws etc are all reliable and bloody excellent - you wouldn't want rid of either. Don't worry about them.
Provided the car has been properly maintained, using the right viscocity oil, changed at the right frequency, your only real worry on a 4g is rust.
Not driven an auto 4g but I have never understood the point of an auto vtec. Easy enough to do a manual conversion though, anyway (in fact, I know someone that can sell you all the kit :lol: )
Now that also sounds like a plan :)

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Post by indigolemon » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:36 am

My first lude was an auto, and while I preferred the manual, it had a rather nice go-kart type quality to it, which made it fun to drive despite the slushbox. I wouldn't let it put you off if the rest of the car is solid.
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage

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