Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Ferdie · Post by **Ferdie** » Sat May 25, 2013 9:47 am

Nice keep up

I have now also only small problems!
First brake lines leaking
Now a elektric problem with indicator headlight fans en headligt motor and door Windows

But at the end we all be happy!!

Keep up bud

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Wed May 29, 2013 10:12 am

Cheers guys, its getting there slowly, next year I may have a larger unit with a ramp

I'd probably eat and sleep at my unit if I had those tools at my disposal!

The car has been washed and the EP3 wheels removed to sell, the original type s wheels have been put back on until my new set arrive

They were the last set I could find available for sale anywhere and hopefully they'll be enroute from the states very shortly.

I also got my K-Tuned t-stat / rad fan switch housing. The reason why I have bought this is that the prelude engine had the rad fan switch on the engine, and the k20 motor'd cars had them on the radiators, with my combination I have no factory location for it. Its a pretty nice piece of kit! Once this is fitted and once I have solved the IACV issue it'll be on the road!

I need to hook power steering up as the wheel is very hard to turn with the tyres on it currently, with the new alloys and their greater offset its going to be even harder. I have found the MR2 electric power steering pump a common fitment for k-swap cars and apparently the k20 speed sensor signal is compatible with the pump to allow for speed sensitive control. The pump will automatically shut itself down after a period of time and reduce its output depending on load & speed.

craig_jdm · Post by **craig_jdm** » Wed May 29, 2013 10:35 am

Good work man

can't wait to see this in action

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:18 am

Hey guys, so a bit of an update as to whats happened this past week:

Finally got another idle control valve fitted which has solved my idle problem, the only issue now is that the engine sometimes dies when you let off the throttle from above 2000rpm, however it is running 17:1 at idle even with the recommended 58psi fuel pressure, I think this could be the problem. The other issue is with the engine mounts, despite them being the softest rubber/silicone available they vibrate the whole car so that every door card, every panel, everything under the dash rattles and shakes.. and its driving me nuts.. At the end of the day the car was designed as a comfortable grand tourer, not a hot hatch..

New Plan:
1. I am going to use as many of the original OEM engine rubbers as possible, I can utilise 3 out of the 4 with relative ease, but I am still not sure what to use for the drivers side engine mount atm.

2. Whilst I redesign the engine mounts I am going to shift the engine across to the passenger side 1 - 1.5" to even out the drive shafts, currently one CV joint is pushed all the way in, the other is all the way out - does anybody know if there are any differences in length between Type S shafts and std prelude ones? If no custom drive shafts are needed this swap just got a whole lot cheaper!
This also means I can do a head gasket or timing chain swap without having to pull the engine due to the extra room infront of the engine chain cover.

3. I am going to cut out some of the inner skin of the bonnet which will allow me to position the engine higher up into bay, this will allow me to refit the front to rear cross member to safeguard grouding out the sump.

Lots more work to complete, but this is it for now!

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:27 am

You're just concerned this project is happening too quick as well aren't you?

You obviously know what you're doing, so all we can say is just have fun

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:56 am

Hehe, I just love creating stuff! If I could do this full time I would! Tbh though this can't get done quick enough, after driving it yesterday I want to get out and use it, especially now the good weather has arrived!

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:00 am

I really do take my hat off to people who can decide to just go and relocate their engine as if it's nothing... Top work mudgey

If you leave the drivers side mount as the one you've already got, you might find that with OEM everywhere else, the vibration is absolutely fine?

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:53 pm

wurlycorner wrote:I really do take my hat off to people who can decide to just go and relocate their engine as if it's nothing... Top work mudgey

If you leave the drivers side mount as the one you've already got, you might find that with OEM everywhere else, the vibration is absolutely fine?

Cheers, its the first proper engine swap I have done and quite enjoyed it, learnt a lot of things in the process!

This might not be a bad shout, i'll give it a go and see how I get on with the other 3. I dug the originals out today and you can easily see how they are able to dampen the vibrations, they are massive!

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:57 pm

Cool, just suggesting that based on my experience with poly bushing the torque mounts (front/back) on my 4th gen. Front one first and all was fine, then doing the rear one sent vibrations mad, so hopefully if you have OEM front/back and one side, you should be fine!

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Thu Jun 06, 2013 2:03 pm

Redrawn my rear most engine mount to incorporate the original OEM bush & hopefully will have the front drawn at some stage. I will also be modifying the inner skin of the bonnet shortly so I can raise the engine to get more ground clearance.

Some shiney bits came in today, only got one mounted to check clearance:

Lude Generation

Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S

Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S