Urgent help timing out,can I adjust it?

[wurlycorner]

There's no reason to go manual tensioner IMO, but plenty of draw backs (you will find that much harder to fit than an auto tensioner - it's tighter unless you modify it (see nafes post for pics) and you need to recheck the tension after a while (strip all the casing down again).
When he said the original one died, it will be because he didn't know what he was doing - it's meant to extend (violently ) when you remove it and you have to wind it back and secure with a bracket to hold it closed. He probably didn't know, or have the bracket.

But yep, agree with the others, you wont be able to adjust one of those cams without having the covers off.
I managed it on the bb4 (ended up same situation as this first time I assembled)
I think I did it by slipping the belt all the way to the edge on both Cam pulleys, the water pump and tensioner pulleys and was then able to just slip it loose on one cam pulley enough to rotate it with a socket on the pulley Bolt, then slide the belt back over everything.

[NafemanNathan]

I called the garage and sent over the same pics I posted here and they said they will have a look at it and strip it down to check it again so that's positive.

Result!

[NafemanNathan]

There's no reason to go manual tensioner IMO, but plenty of draw backs (you will find that much harder to fit than an auto tensioner - it's tighter unless you modify it (see nafes post for pics) and you need to recheck the tension after a while (strip all the casing down again).

It's more expensive, but you could go for a Kaisenspeed Tensioner. Essentially it uses all the gubbins that goes with an auto tensioner setup, and the KS tensioner is the same shape as an OEM auto tensioner, but the head of it (that applies the tension) is manually adjustable, by screwing and then locking off. So if you went this route all you other existing kit will still work and the tensioner when wound back should allow the belt to go on slack enough to make the job simpler.

[106pete]

The trouble with have it done again is the auto tensioner should be replaced again! They can be screwed back but I'm not sure how good it is for them. But on the other hand he kind of did you a favour by breaking the old one as it wouldn't last very long once refitted.

You don't have to fit a Honda adjuster, think I got mine from local auto supplies, guessing it was a blue print job.

[wurlycorner]

yeah laser tools do an h22 cambelt change tool kit with the locking devices in it.

It's fine to wind the tensioner back, they're designed to be (you do ideally need a vice to hold the body in while doing it though... The spring pressure is pretty massive!)

[Max]

@lewie fraser How did you figure out this was the case, what were the symptoms?

Im currently working on an eg civic with a B16 and when I changed all the cam cover gaskets the cam pulleys looked off to me, although I didn't have time to rotate the crank and see if I was right, the car seems to be misfiring on idle...

[niny]

manual tensioner is better in few ways, almost 60% cheaper then auto and no fear about fail, so go with manual, i did conversion my self few weeks ago, nothing harder then auto, if you decide go with manual check 4th gen service manual for h23 engine

[Vtecmec]

You can sort this relatively easily in about 15 mins.

Slacken off the bolt that holds the cam pulley.

Lock the auto tensioner in place using the 10mm bolt that sits halfway down the cambelt cover, it has a split pin for identification, see the service manual for more info.

Take out the bolt for the cam pulley and slide the pulley out a little, be careful not to lose the little locking keyway.

Then slide the pulley off the shaft using one hand and using the other to keep a little tension on the belt, then move the pulley one tooth and reslisde on its shaft (its easily done).

With the pulley half on the shaft place the keyway beck into place from the back of the pulley.

Reattach pulley bolt.

Undo the 10mm autotensioner lock bolt.

Sorted.