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Engine cuts out when slowing down
- wurlycorner
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- Rob_Cool1
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True, true, Il get the oil leak and rad sorted then take it for a tune as thats one of the things on my to do list! as its got adjustable cam pulleys i dont know if they've been set up right that may be an issue :/
It seems to be running a lot smoother now but it does need a tune so it's running at its best.
Can i change the injectors on it? I dont know the specs of the standard ones but I'd like to upgrade to like 400 - 500 cc injectors, il probably need to change the fuel rail, but as i dont know much about the engine yet and dont know many companies that sell performance parts that may have to wait
It seems to be running a lot smoother now but it does need a tune so it's running at its best.
Can i change the injectors on it? I dont know the specs of the standard ones but I'd like to upgrade to like 400 - 500 cc injectors, il probably need to change the fuel rail, but as i dont know much about the engine yet and dont know many companies that sell performance parts that may have to wait

- NafemanNathan
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Yeah running 95 will do that
My 3rd isn't a fan of 95 either. I used to have an S1 106 Rallye and that couldn't handle 95 at all. It would constantly stall when cruising up to roundabouts and traffic lights whenever I dipped the clutch. I always carried octane booster in the car in case I was stuck for fuel at limited petrol station. So fingers crossed that is your problem 


- jjmartin349571
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- Rob_Cool1
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I'm guessing so, it ran so lumpy and spluttery at low revs so im guessing it just cant handle the 95 as well. Being quite an old engine it probably doesn't have the ECU mapping to compensate lower fuel grades :/ that and yeah im guessing the ignition is set for easier to burn fuel 
Saying that, on the tank of fuel i used to get to Bath, Bristol then back (i spend £55 which was about 41 litres and used a can of redex) i did 294 miles which worked out at 33.6mpg!!
thats almost the same as my 1.4 fiesta :L

Saying that, on the tank of fuel i used to get to Bath, Bristol then back (i spend £55 which was about 41 litres and used a can of redex) i did 294 miles which worked out at 33.6mpg!!


- Rob_Cool1
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Well it changes quite a lot. Normally 800rpm, sometimes 1-1.2k rpm when warming up but sometimes 500-600rpm. And when idling at the lower 2 when you look at the needle it dips down slightly then goes back up constantly. you can feel it too a slight knocking too when the revs dip (only about 10-20 rpm)
- Merlin
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It could be TPS/IACV related. The car may not be getting enough air at idle and the sudden shutting off of the throttle body when you press the clutch may not be allowing enough air to get through.
You can test the TPS by measuring the resistance across its contacts. There is a test procedure in the service manual
You can test the TPS by measuring the resistance across its contacts. There is a test procedure in the service manual

- Rob_Cool1
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I think your right, I dont really like the design on the air filter because where it connects into the hole in the wing there are too many cables in the way so its only getting half the air. Also the other pipe that goes off behind the rad i thinks pointless, i know its supposed to help warm the car up quicker so ive disconnected it half way down so it acts as a 2nd inlet and seems to be fine, i haven't noticed a change in warm up either.Merlin wrote:It could be TPS/IACV related. The car may not be getting enough air at idle and the sudden shutting off of the throttle body when you press the clutch may not be allowing enough air to get through.
You can test the TPS by measuring the resistance across its contacts. There is a test procedure in the service manual



I ideally want to put an induction kit on, but one that doesn't lose power


