Engine Oil Light ON - help and advice

Post by **Donald** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:55 pm

Salazar wrote:I think it was called Synth S.

Going on the bottle pictured in your sale thread, yes Synth S, rebranded as Mobil 3000 X1.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-805-mobil-s ... 5w-40.aspx

Post by **vanzep** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:35 am

good on you for taking the car back - what a decent bloke

hope you get it fixed up ok

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:43 am

^^ here here, have some rep.

Salazar · Post by **Salazar** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:20 pm

Donald wrote:
Salazar wrote:I think it was called Synth S.
Going on the bottle pictured in your sale thread, yes Synth S, rebranded as Mobil 3000 X1. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-805-mobil-s ... 5w-40.aspx

Lol, ah yes nice detective work there Donald, thanks.

Having looked into this throughly now and had a chat with Rich at Performance Autoworks today, the symptons seem to point to a faulty oil pressure release valve. The valve could be scored and need replacing or simply stuck open, either way I've ordered new parts. I'll be testing the oil pressure at the sender on Saturday, and then changing the pressure release valve and spring along with filling her up with new oil and that should be problem solved.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:30 pm

Fingers crossed that's what it is.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:23 pm

Is the pressure release valve a lot of dosh?? Maybe i should change mine while i got the motor out

. Not sure i wana fork out for a new pump!! Oh and top bloke for being a decent seller

Sorry to hear the jobby luck!!

Salazar · Post by **Salazar** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:38 am

Thebusofwoe wrote:Is the pressure release valve a lot of dosh?? Maybe i should change mine while i got the motor out . Not sure i wana fork out for a new pump!! Oh and top bloke for being a decent seller Sorry to hear the jobby luck!!

Cheers Bus, yeah I was gutted when I got the news about the oil light, especially considering I've never had an issue with it in 5 years of ownership. However, the theory at the moment is that due to the minimal use the car has had over the last 18months, and the increased use over the last couple of weeks, the oil pressure release valve has failed and is stuck open after being in vtec which hasn't really been activated properly for a good while. Just goes to show that engines like to be used, and to the max at least once in a while, otherwise when they are pushed they aren't up to it.

There are 3 parts to the valve assembly - the valve, spring and nut. All in it's about £20 from Honda, so it could well be worth replacing on your engine, as it's easy to access once you have the sump off.

Salazar · Post by **Salazar** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:57 pm

jjmartin349571 wrote:Is the car idling at the correct RPM when warm?

I got the car delivered back home today and I've noticed that when it's started the rpm goes up to 2000, then it hunts about flicking up and down from 1400 to 1800 a few times. It then comes down to a steady 1000rpm, and as the car warms up it gradually comes down a settles at 500rpm. The oil low pressure then flickers on very dimly after the cars been started for about 5mins and stays there flickering dimly. The idle speed should be around 750rpm, so I'm now wondering if a low idle speed of only 500rpm may not be producing enough oil pressure and causing the warning light to come on. What's the most likely cause for the idle to drop as low 500rpm?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:20 pm

I suspect 500rpm wouldn't give enough oil pressure, no.

Not sure if the specs for the oil pump are in the manual anywhere?

First bet re: idle is air lock in the coolant, so bleed that.
Then check FITV; http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t758.html
and
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/post117 ... tv#p117765

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:31 pm

If you do go changing this oil pressure relief thingy, can you take some pics of doing the job and particularly what the new/old valve look like as a comparison please, so we can all understand what it does and what a failed one looks like? (If it turns out to be that)

Thanks!