What causes an engine to cut out when stopping?...

Brozilla · Post by **Brozilla** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:35 am

Left part of the cluster:
First row: doors, only lit when opened
Second row, left light: check engine. Dont know for stock, but blinks three times if remaped with ectune on startup
Second row, right light: Trunk, only lit when opened
Third row, left light: Battery. Should be lit on startup and when car stalls
Third row, right light: Oil. Should be lit on startup or if oil pump sucks air instead of oil, but that light is least of oyur problems in that case

Fourth row, left light: dont have it
Fourth row, right light: can't remember i saw it on, too blurry to see in the pic.

Middle part:
Left: airbag, should light up on startup
Right: seatbelt warning, dafuq? I dont think I have that. Does BB9 have it or is it exclusive to BB6?

Right part:
First row: empty afaik
Second row, left light: ignition key
Second row, right light: ABS
Third row, left light: don't know, yet
Third row, right light: handbrake

EDIT: I am driving on the other side of the road, here's a picture for you guys

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:48 am

That's ok, that's what I imagined. Just wondered as I've only ever had one 5th gen, so nothing to compare it to

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Fri May 01, 2015 9:49 pm

So I found one issue. The catch can I fitted recently I had hooked up using the hose provided. It turns out this hose is worse that useless! Under the heat and vacuum conditions it was softening up and collapsing on itself

This was therefore building up pressure in the head and causing it to struggle. I replaced the feed from the valve over to the catch can with a length of silicone vacuum hose which is up to the job, but I didn't have enough for the piece to go from the catch can to the inlet manifold.

Anyway, I thought that would be fine for now until I can get another length to do the job as the piece from the catch can to the manifold still appeared to be fine. So I've been to work and back today, but the car did cut out this morning. So when I got home from work today, before I turned the engine off I popped the bonnet to find the second length (catch can to manifold) was now collapsing on itself instead

Obviously now the first piece isn't collapsing on itself heat is getting through to the second piece and softening it up to collapse.

So for now I have taken the catch can out of the equation and just hooked the PCV up to the inlet manifold as standard. I took her for a spin and she didn't even get to the end of my road before she cut out. So although a problem, that wasn't it

I returned home and again left the engine running and started spraying carb cleaner all around the inlet manifold. That made no difference, so I'm fairly confident to say it's not a vacuum leak.

Whilst I was stood over the engine I thought I'd just rev it a bit, so I pulled on the throttle cable and revved it very slightly. First, no problem, then I did it again, and after I'd let it go it briefly sounded like a tractor

It returned to sounding normal after a few seconds, but had me spooked. I revved it again. It revved fine and returned fine. Then I did it again and after letting go it sounded like a tractor again. This time it stayed sounding like a tractor though. I went around to cam-side and it was louder. I tried recording it, but it didn't record for some reason.

Tomorrow I'll remove the valve cover to inspect. It doesn't sound so metallic as it does plastic. I wonder whether it's the belt rubbing on the cover or something. Either way it's the first time I've heard it and it's very coincidental that all this has come about at the same time. What damage can be caused from blocking the PCV?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri May 01, 2015 9:56 pm

If the PCV is blocked, it can crud up the oil system (excess carbon deposits from the hot combustion gases getting down into the crank case) and cause oil leaks (pressurised crank case blowing oil out of the oil seals).
I doubt that will have caused a tractor noise on your engine?

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Fri May 01, 2015 10:06 pm

No, I just thought it running rough might have. When the catch can hose had collapsed on itself the gases were still able to get though, just barely, but out of interest to see what would happen I pinched it completely closed and the engine sounded like it had started to struggle. So it would have been struggling the whole time the hoses were collapsed on their own accord.

Post by **Lude-dude** » Sat May 02, 2015 10:43 am

you been caught out with those sleeving type of hose's and not proper vacuum hose's

happened to me before

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Tue May 05, 2015 1:07 pm

Well before fitting the CF bonnet on Saturday I managed to have a looksee under the valve cover.

First off I removed the spark plugs. The first thing I noticed was that the plugs weren't that tight. Which reminded me of when I first got the car and on checking it over I found that only one of them had been reasonably tight and two of them hadn't even required the ratchet for me to undo them!

So it's suggests they loosening themselves off

Anyway, I removed them and there is signs of oil around three of the threads...

I believe it's coming from the seal on the valve cover as the bores in the head were quite oily as well. I think I've got some new seals for the 4th gen somewhere, so I'll renew these once I've found them, or I'll just buy new ones.

The condition of the plug tips seems fine though. I was expecting carbon deposits from over-fueling to be honest, as going by "the guide" and looking at the recommendation under carbon deposits, these are the areas I suspect the most... Engine managment I'm hoping is the culprit and a retune to suit my mods should solve it. Otherwise it's in the fueling system as the car has always stunk of fuel suggesting there could be a leak, and then there's the ignition. I'm going to put the OEM coil back in just to rule out the MSD coil and I also noticed having removed the spark plugs that they're only basic NGK plugs...

So I've ordered some Iridiums (NGK ZFR6FIX-11).

As far as the "tractor noise" I heard the other day goes, I've not heard it since. There's no gunkiness or anything suspect under the valve cover and the belt, although browning appears to be fine...

She still tried to cut out on me this morning though. I pulled up at traffic calming and the revs dropped right down to practically 0, but I managed to remove my foot from the brake in time to give her a little rev to keep it.

I think I just need to get the oil leak sorted and the car re-tuned, but I'll see how swapping the coil back to standard fairs first.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue May 05, 2015 1:16 pm

That's nice and clean inside that head

I bet Phil has sold you duff parts...

(I don't really)

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Tue May 05, 2015 1:28 pm

As I said in my profile thread, it's basically unproven and god knows where he got it from

Brozilla · Post by **Brozilla** » Tue May 05, 2015 1:31 pm

Normal thing for those old buggers to leak on spark plugs from valve cover

. I exchanged something like three sets of 3rd party seals on them before going mad and getting OEM ones which are pricy but totally worth it