Good advice thanks, I'll check the drain plug. As for the fitment issue of the front crossmember, no problems:nellers2001 wrote:The rad did seem well made. Might be worth sourcing a couple of spare O rings for the drain valve to. Mine starting weeping quitequickly as the rubber perished, maybe old stock? You may have fun with the drain as well as it was next to impossible to get the drain plug out with the rad in situ, and had to lift the rad out to get the bung out due to the sub frame and the extra thickness of the rad.nucleustylzlude wrote:Sounds about right, exactly what I need to do is get the grinder out. Heard many people say about the fitment issues but it's still well made and I can't deny the huge capacity of it.nellers2001 wrote:I had a nightmare with the aluminium japspeed rad for my 4th gen a couple years back. Emailed japspeed to tell them they don't fit and they basically said they didn't care as never had a complaint before...I found that very hard to believe but had already modified the mountings on the car with a grinder to make it fit!
The main engine paint will be the same black Simoniz Engine Enamel as that is the initial purpose of this paint. I've just gone a bit mad everywhere else as its robust and a good finish.Drax wrote:I love itnucleustylzlude wrote:
ive done similar but used the Nippon battery stabilier, plus cut cut off switch is in the dash.
btw, I may have missed this so apologies, I see your using the Simoniz Engine Enamel as the finish, what are you using for the main engine paint? as I need to stock some for mine too.
cheers
I was debating on adding the cut-off at the dash but its not exactly in competition use. Always something I can add later down the line.
Even more great advice, sounds like a plan! So win, win for both of us!Vtecmec wrote:nucleustylzlude wrote:Vtecmec: Alright, alright you'll get your mount soon.
I've got to drop the old box, fit the flywheel and clutch, then install the ATR box back in its place. I'll see how the jack holds the engine with just the rear and passenger mount, if it looks ok, I'll remove it for you.If it helps, I've just had the box off (and back on) with only the rear and passenger mount and a suitably placed jack, and to be honest, gettting the box in an out is a million times easier with the front cross bar removed, it saves you having to twist and contort the gearbox up. If I ever remove the box again, that bar will be off first.
