What ECU are you running?Therealjj91 wrote:I've just read through all this and I had a very similar problem yesterday when we were mapping my car, he managed to map it out in the end and it was something to do with the ecu running on a closed loop so the ecu was constantly trying to think for it self and adjust so then we changed it to open loop and it sorted it straight away.
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What causes an engine to cut out when stopping?...
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That does make a whole lot of sense!Merlin wrote:There you go, the 3rd wire is to main relayShiny wrote:Any use? There are other pages beyond my comprehension!
I think I might know why (just hypothesising though). The diagram shiny put up says that the IACV is opened when the engine is started to increase revs. Since the ATR does not have an FITV all the idle control (both cold and hot) is done by the IACV.
In the Lude the cold idle is assisted by the FITV.
But going by what Shiny posted up, and what happened when I left the IACV unplugged (2000rpm at idle), the valve is open when disconnected. I assume the valve is then closing completely when up to temperature, which is why I'm almost stalling (or stalling), so it is definitely working, just not well. So is it a resistance thing?
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I haven't yet actually! Seems the obvious thing to do, but rushing to get other things sorted before Japfest, so haven't even had time to consider it yet.wurlycorner wrote:sorry I meant iacv, not egr.
I guess that could explain why it's got progressively worse, to now be doing what it's doing, but everything is still telling me the AEM can't work a 3 wire ATR/Euro-R IACV properly, so I do need to convert regardless.
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If Merlins supposition about how the iacv on the atr works though (makes sense to me, so I'm not suggesting there's any doubt!) if you convert to 2 wire iacv, will you not get crap idle anyway though, for a different reason? (due to no fitv and then also lost the additional 'boost' function of the 3 wore iacv)?
it's a minefield this tuning malarkey!




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