Alternators again. I hate em.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 9:33 am

If you're drawing more current than the alternator wants to give, your voltage will drop (or you will burn something out), that's the way electrickery works - hence why I was saying about the load you are demanding from it having gone up (with what you've done with ice and battery etc.).
You said that the voltage is dropping to 13v when it is on load, which supports that theory. If the ECU is monitoring voltage and is looking for more than 13v and is set to chuck a spaz when it doesn't see what it expects to see (i dont know how the 5g works in that regard) then yes, that all fits.

You can't go too big on current output from an alternator btw, it's not like voltage - the car will only draw how many amps it wants to draw. if you fit a 200 amp alternator and the car only wants 105 amps, it will only draw 105 amps. So fitting an uprated alternator will not blow anything up. I fitted a 4g alternator to my 3g (the 4g one has a higher max current output).

wasn't someone selling a new uprated Bosch alternator on the forum a while ago?

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:02 am

I meant that when I load the car up voltages drops to 13.5v. When I unload the car up and rev voltages drops to 13.5v but never lower. Nor higher than 14v. Also the ice is disconnected completely at the moment. Headunit is connected directly to the battery with the amps and is all disconnected.

Voltage seems fine. Charging seems fine. I just need to test current and maybe the change in current is what throws a light wobbly.

This is a huge Pita.

Post by **Drax** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:05 am

does anyone close to you own a 5g, maybe then use theirs to test in order to save you forking out for something you may not need to purchase.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:20 pm

There are no alternators available at 100 amp.

tried all my suppliers and my garages. They all Said it won't make a blind but if difference either.

So next is to change the battery ground to another point....Just to make sure.

Post by **Donald** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:18 pm

It's only two bolts to remove the alternator right?

If the H22A8 ones are 100 amp then HIT ME UP BBY

If you want to try it, that is.

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:19 pm

well all i know is the 100amp one i got from Germany worked first time out the recon ones i got from over here where 3 and 0

as the yanks say
plus all the alt's i got over here where just slung in a lucas box nothing in the box but the alt the German one was securely packaged with polystyrene and expanding foam bags now i know its just packaging but it shows care to me i think these UK companies are trying to flog returned stock all the time

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:39 pm

Put a new battery ground directly to the rear chassis beam.

No difference at all.

Donald...pm incoming.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:55 am

RattyMcClelland wrote:Then I'm forking out for a brand new accord type r one if they fit.

Do you know what the amperage of an ATR alternator is supposed to be? I've looked all over the net, but can't find it

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:04 pm

NafemanNathan wrote:
RattyMcClelland wrote:Then I'm forking out for a brand new accord type r one if they fit.
Do you know what the amperage of an ATR alternator is supposed to be? I've looked all over the net, but can't find it

Won't fit anyway. Different plug.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:24 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:
NafemanNathan wrote:
RattyMcClelland wrote:Then I'm forking out for a brand new accord type r one if they fit.
Do you know what the amperage of an ATR alternator is supposed to be? I've looked all over the net, but can't find it
Won't fit anyway. Different plug.

Just been out and had a look. I appear to have an ATR one fitted. A CJV40...

Being OBD2 wouldn't the plugs be the same?